Savannah Travel Guide

Overview

Savannah was founded in 1733 by James Oglethorpe as Georgia's first city, on a strict grid of 24 (now 22) tree-shaded public squares — an urban planning innovation that's still considered one of the great pre-industrial city designs in America. The 2.5-square-mile Historic District, the largest National Historic Landmark District in the US, is a procession of moss-draped live oaks, Federal and Greek Revival mansions, wrought-iron gates, and the cobblestone bluff of River Street stepping down to the Savannah River. The city of about 145,000 people draws over 14 million annual visitors and consistently ranks alongside Charleston as one of the best US destinations in travel magazine surveys.

What Savannah does differently from Charleston is wear its eccentricity proudly. The Bonaventure Cemetery, made famous by John Berendt's 1994 book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, is a wooded riverside necropolis where Spanish moss hangs from oak branches over Victorian statuary. The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) infuses the city with an art-school edge — converted warehouses turned galleries, lavish public installations, a museum of fashion. The St. Patrick's Day parade is the second-largest in the US after New York; the river runs green for the occasion, and the city erupts into a five-day street party.

The food, while less celebrity-chef-laden than Charleston's, is more deeply Southern: Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room serves a family-style boarding-house lunch (fried chicken, sweet potatoes, butter beans) that lines up around the block by 10am; Sweet Spice and Angel's BBQ extend the regional canon. River Street is mostly tourist-trap territory but the Cotton Exchange and Factor's Walk above the river bluff are genuinely historic. A long weekend (3-4 days) covers the historic squares, the Bonaventure Cemetery, Tybee Island beach, and several quality meals. The city pairs naturally with a Charleston extension — they're only two hours apart.

Photo on Unsplash

Best Time to Visit

March to May & October to early December

Spring is peak — March brings azaleas in Forsyth Park and the famous St. Patrick's Day celebrations (the 17th plus surrounding weekend), and April and May deliver perfect 75-80F days. Early fall (October to early December) avoids the summer humidity but keeps the warm weather and adds golden-leaf colors to the historic squares. Summer (June-August) is muggy (90F+ with humidity) and mosquito-heavy; winter is mild (50s-60s) and the cheapest, with reduced crowds.

Top Attractions

The 22 Historic Squares

Free

Walk the grid of the Historic District — each square is named (Chippewa, Madison, Lafayette, Monterey, Calhoun) and many have a central statue or fountain. Forsyth Park anchors the south end with its iconic 1858 fountain; Chippewa Square is famous as the 'bus stop bench' from Forrest Gump.

Bonaventure Cemetery

Free; guided tours $25-$50

A 100-acre wooded riverside cemetery on the east edge of Savannah — Spanish-moss live oaks, weathered Victorian statuary, and the graves of poet Conrad Aiken, songwriter Johnny Mercer, and the original 'Bird Girl' sculpture (the famous Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil book cover model). Self-guided or with a local guide.

River Street & Factor's Walk

Free to walk

The cobblestone bluff stepping down to the Savannah River, lined with restored 19th-century cotton warehouses now converted to bars, restaurants, candy shops (Savannah's Candy Kitchen), and the Cotton Exchange. Touristy but historically essential — the old freight elevators and ramps are still in place.

Mercer Williams House Museum

$15 adult

The 1860s Italianate mansion at the center of the Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil story — the home of antiques dealer Jim Williams, where the famous shooting took place in 1981. Guided tours run on the hour; allow 45 minutes.

Tybee Island (day trip)

Free; parking $4/hour, lighthouse $11

20 miles east of Savannah, Tybee is a small barrier island with 5 miles of public beach, a working 1773 lighthouse, and casual seafood shacks. Drive over the Tybee Causeway, park at the south end, and spend a beach day. The Crab Shack on nearby Chimney Creek is a quirky lunch stop.

Ghost Tour

$25-$45 per person

Savannah is repeatedly called the most haunted city in America. Ghost tours range from family-friendly daytime history walks to spookier nighttime experiences with paranormal investigators. Sixth Sense Savannah and Ghost City Tours are the consistent top picks; tours leave from various downtown squares.

Photo on Unsplash

Local Food

Mrs. Wilkes Family-Style Lunch

$28 per person all-you-can-eat

An 80-year-old boarding-house tradition — communal tables, family-style platters of fried chicken, butter beans, mac and cheese, cornbread, sweet potato soufflé, and dozens of other Southern dishes. Cash only, lunch only, line up by 10:30am.

Shrimp & Grits (Lowcountry)

$22-$32

Local Wild Georgia shrimp sautéed with bacon and tomato over creamy stone-ground grits — the regional standard. The Olde Pink House, B. Matthew's Eatery, and The Florence are the consistent local recommendations.

Low Country Boil

$22-$45 per person

A communal one-pot meal of shrimp, andouille sausage, corn on the cob, potatoes, and Old Bay seasoning, traditionally dumped onto a newspaper-lined table. The Crab Shack on Tybee is the casual version; The Wyld in Savannah is the upscale one.

Pralines

$3-$5 each

Pecan-and-brown-sugar candy patties — the regional sweet, made fresh throughout Savannah's downtown candy shops (Savannah's Candy Kitchen, River Street Sweets, Byrd's). Buy them warm if you can; they're best within hours of being poured.

Southern Brunch

$15-$28

B. Matthew's Eatery for biscuits-and-gravy and shrimp-and-grits; J. Christopher's for chicken-and-waffles; Goose Feathers for grits bowls and breakfast pies; Back in the Day Bakery for cinnamon rolls and savory biscuit sandwiches.

Budget Guide

Budget

$100-$170/day

Mid-range chain hotels near the Historic District ($90-$140/night) or vacation rentals just outside the district. Eat at lunch counters and barbecue spots ($12-$20). Walk everywhere; free trolleys (DOT shuttle) loop the Historic District. Free cemeteries, river walk, and squares.

Mid-Range

$250-$400/day

Boutique inns in the Historic District — Mansion on Forsyth Park, Andaz Savannah, Foley House, Olde Harbour Inn ($200-$350/night). Dinner at The Olde Pink House, Husk Savannah, or The Grey ($60-$100 per person). Mrs. Wilkes lunch line, ghost tour, Bonaventure cemetery guided.

Luxury

$500-$1200+/day

Stay at Perry Lane Hotel, the Mansion on Forsyth Park, or the Plant Riverside District JW Marriott ($400-$1000/night). Private historical guided tour, fine dining at The Grey (consistently in 'best US restaurants' lists) and The Florence, spa treatments at the Forsyth Park Spa.

Travel Tips

Fly into Savannah/Hilton Head International (SAV), about 20 minutes from downtown. Direct flights from major East Coast hubs; longer connections from the West. Alternative: fly into Charleston (CHS, 2 hours away) and combine cities.
Park your rental at the hotel and walk. The Historic District is intentionally walkable; metered street parking is enforced. Free DOT trolley shuttles loop downtown if you need a rest. Pedicabs are a quirky touristy option.
Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is cash only and serves only lunch (Monday-Friday). Line up at 10:30am to be seated when doors open at 11am; the line wraps the block by noon. The wait is part of the experience.
Open container laws are extraordinarily relaxed in Savannah — you can walk with one alcoholic drink in a clear plastic to-go cup within the Historic District. Restaurants and bars will pour your drink into a to-go cup on request.
Mosquitoes and gnats are real in spring through fall. The river-adjacent humidity creates ideal breeding conditions. Pack insect repellent; sit indoors after sunset if you're sensitive. Spring and fall are far better than summer for this reason alone.
Combine with Charleston (2 hours north) for a complete Lowcountry trip. Many travelers do 3-4 days in each city; the contrasts (Charleston's polished gentility vs Savannah's eccentric charm) make for a great pairing.